When a new hair term hits the trending page, there’s always a chance we’re just putting a new name on an already-established technique. Moonlights, the freehand highlight technique to revive a color job, is another case of this renaming phenomenon. At least, that’s what we thought.
This exploding trend seems to be more smoke and mirrors than actual technique. Experts think the real moonlight technique is not as algorithm-friendly; the style takes longer than displayed in these viral videos.
Featured Experts
- Marie Nino is an expert colorist and stylist based in New York
- Ryan Dickie is an expert colorist at IGK Salon Miami
Wait, what are moonlights?
@emreciftcio Special emreciftcio #moonlight #themoonlyhairpalace #emreciftcio #hair ♬ The Hills x Say It Right by GOBAITH – GOBAITH
Like this TikTok (seemingly) demonstrates, moonlights are created by sweeping the hair back and applying bleach in a freehand style to areas the sun would catch. The bleach is combed in to create that balayage effect.
Except.
Is that even bleach?
While the color payoff to this haphazard and ultra-fast technique looks super satisfying, we have to ask: that’s hair mousse, right? In fact, if you dig through the most popular moonlights clips, each video smells a little fishy. And we’re not the only ones who think that.
What do experts think?
According to expert colorist at IGK Salon Miami, Ryan Dickie, there’s some truth to this technique. But the truth is not in its presentation.
“The overwhelming majority of content I have found of this technique online seems to be massively manipulative and misleading,” Dickie explains. “I have also consulted with several colorists to verify my concern. Ultimately, the perception of this technique is vastly misunderstood, and seemingly purposely deceitful.“
So, what are real moonlights?
It’s not that moonlights are fake, it’s that they take way more strategy than just plopping bleach onto your forehead and brushing it in.
“Moonlights, or vibrant minimal highlights with vivid colors applied in a way that mimics the natural light reflection in the hair,” explains New York colorist and stylist, Marie Nino. “They create a bright, glowing effect by placing vibrant tones through sections of the hair.”
So, sort of a balayage, but brighter?
“‘Moonlights’ refers to the technique of color application in which a colorist will apply lightener to hair in open-air, with the intention of brightening or lightening,” Dickie adds. “This technique is best used to revive a previously lifted, and now lived-in and faded blonde or bronde.”
How is this style different from a balayage?
“This is different from balayage as it is more free form, less structured and less saturated,” Dickie explains. “While balayage focuses in more focal areas, moonlighting is a more global and general application.”
Both aim to catch light, but according to Nino, you can think of moonlights as more intentionally eye-catching.
“Unlike balayage, which is more about soft, natural gradation, moonlights focus on creating bold, eye-catching contrast with more defined placement,” she explains.
How are they actually created?
No surprise here: your colorist won’t just throw a bunch of bleach straight onto your head.
“During application for the moonlighting technique, a colorist will paint lightener straight onto a brush or a comb and simply comb the lightener into the areas to be lightened,” Dickie says. “I often use this technique to refresh old and ‘worn out’ blonde after a full highlight application, as it is a very delicate, fast and easy technique to add additional lightness, simultaneously achieving a multitonal effect.”
This is definitely similar to the TikTok videos going viral but with a key difference. The bleach goes on the comb first, not your head.
Are moonlights right for you?
“Layered, wavy, curly hairstyles or styles with movement work best for this highlighting technique,” says Nino. “They allow the vibrant tones to pop and blend seamlessly.”
For Dickie, moonlights are perfect for lighter colors in need of a refresh.
“Using this technique on dark or virgin hair does not promise ideal results,” Dickie warns. “Without ensuring even application and heavy saturation, most lightener products will reach their maximum lightening capability and stall, causing uneven lift and unwanted underlying tones.”
