When it comes to curly hair care, figuring out your curl type is the first step to discovering the best routine for you. If you find yourself struggling to decipher your custom product lineup in a world of endless serums, creams and potions, allow this guide to lead the way. From bouncy waves to corkscrew curls and kinky textures, there’s a diverse array of curl patterns out there, each requiring its own tailored approach to styling and maintenance. While you may have more than one curl pattern on your head, identifying your primary type will help you build the most effective hair care routine for your specific texture.
Featured experts
- Adrienne Monroe is a curl expert
- Ni’Kita Wilson is the VP of product development at PATTERN Beauty
- Madison Sullivan is an extensions specialist and Master Stylist at Dop Dop Salon
The Andre Walker Curl Typing System
So, where to begin when determining your curl type? We recommend the Andre Walker system. “The Andre Walker hair Typing system, also known as The Hair Chart, is a classification system developed in the 1990s by Oprah Winfrey’s stylist, Andre Walker,” says curly expert Adrienne Monroe.
“The simplicity of the Andre Walker curl typing system can help reduce some of the guesswork for those beginning their hair-love journey,” says VP of product development at PATTERN Beauty Ni’Kita Wilson. “While there are nuances that the Walker typing system does not account for (like density and porosity), it provides a basic framework and creates a common language that makes it helpful for consumers to research care tips for their specific hair needs. It also made it easier for brands to direct consumers to products designed with their textures in mind.”
Andre Walker’s curl typing system categorizes curls into numerical buckets from one to four. Essentially, one is straight hair, two is wavy, three is curly and four is coily, says extensions specialist and Master Stylist at Dop Dop Salon Madison Sullivan. From there, they are broken down into three subcategories (A, B, C), which define the hair’s texture, denoting the diameter of your curls, with A representing the widest and C the tightest.
It’s a lot of information, but don’t worry—we’ve got you covered. Ahead, we explore the guide to different curl types and provide styling tips and product recommendations tailored to each.
Type 2 Hair (Wavy)
Type 2 waves range from subtle bends to gentle waves and can vary in thickness from fine to coarse. While they typically maintain their shape, they can be easily be straightened and sometimes lack definition. These waves follow an S-shaped pattern that hugs the scalp, providing a versatile canvas for styling experimentation.
For type 2 hair, “achieving the right balance of lightweight moisture and hold is crucial to avoid flattening the waves or weighing them down excessively, risking a straightened appearance,” says Monroe. While texture sets the foundation, density and porosity play significant roles in product selection. Thin wavy hair, for instance, is easily weighed down, making a single product choice ideal.
Type 2A
As the loosest texture of the bunch, 2A hair has fine, tousled waves that are easily styled with heat tools for a sleeker look. This type is most likely to fall flat or lack volume, so amp up your roots when hair is wet with a lightweight mousse like the Curlsmith Bouncy Strength Volume Hair Foam ($28). Need even more volume? Bring some backup into wash day with the Ceremonia Weightless Hydration Shampoo ($22), and steer clear of dense curl creams or oils that will weigh your waves down and compromise their natural texture.
Type 2B
Thicker in diameter than 2A, 2B hair most closely resembles classic beach waves. If you fall into this category, texturizing sprays are your best friend, and a few spritzes will go a long way. Opt for a lightweight formula like the Dae Hibiscus Wave Spray ($30) to complement your naturally tousled strands. 2B waves are also more prone to frizz, so consider introducing a smoothing agent into your wash day routine. If you’re battling humidity, apply the Oribe Matte Waves Texture Hair Lotion ($44) to damp hair ahead of air drying or diffusing. It’s a one-and-done pick for keeping unwanted frizz at bay.
Type 2C
As the thickest and most textured type of wavy hair, 2C might appear curly to the layman’s eye. However, just like Types 2A and 2B, it’s characterized by an S-bend shape rather than spirals. One distinguishing factor of type 2C is that the waves start at the root (rather than lying flat on the head), and it’s even more prone to frizz. Key essentials to keep on deck are a hydrating shampoo and conditioner.
Go with a sulfate-free option so as to not strip your strands of natural oils and moisture. We like the Verb Hydrating Shampoo & Conditioner Duo ($38). Next, apply a lightweight leave-in conditioner to damp hair for added hydration. The Briogeo Rosarco Milk Leave-In Conditioning Spray ($25) is a fabulous pick. Sullivan suggests looking for a lightweight defining cream for type 2 hair. She recommends DevaCurl Wave Maker ($34), which “helps define the hair’s curl pattern and reduce frizz while providing moisture without weighing the hair down.”
Type 3 Hair (Curly)
Type 3 hair tends to be the most texturally diverse. Strands can range from fine to thick and often appear wavy when wet before transforming into loopy spirals or tight corkscrews as they dry. Enhancing definition and combating frizz are the most common concerns among this curly cohort. With its range of textures and unique patterns, type 3 hair embodies endless versatility and requires tailored care to unleash its full potential.
Type 3A
Type 3A curls are known for their loose, voluminous spirals. Enhance your natural bounce with products that deliver added definition without weighing down your strands. Start with a hydrating shampoo and conditioner duo like the Ouidad Curl Quencher Moisturizing Shampoo ($24) and Conditioner ($24) to keep your curls nourished and frizz-free. For added moisture and definition, apply a leave-in conditioner or curl-enhancing cream while hair is still damp. The SheaMoisture Coconut & Hibiscus Curl Enhancing Smoothie ($12) is an excellent choice to enhance your individual texture without sacrificing volume.
“For looser curl patterns like 3A and 3B, selecting products based on density is essential,” says Monroe. “The versatile Be My Curl To Have & To Hold Gel ($30) serves as an effective all-in-one solution for these curl types, simplifying styling routines when applied to soaking wet hair, ideally in the shower.”
Tpe 3B
Type 3B curls boast tighter, more defined ringlets with plenty of volume. To accentuate your natural curl pattern, opt for lightweight products that provide hold and definition without unwanted stiffness or a crunchy feel. Begin wash day with the HairStory New Wash ($56), a cult-favorite co-wash that cleanses and conditions in one fell swoop, preserving your strands’ natural shine. Use a wide-tooth comb to disperse the product evenly and work through any tangles. Then follow up with a curl-defining gel cream such as Miss Jessie’s Multicultural Curls ($17) styler. The lightweight formula does a fantastic job enhancing definition, reducing frizz and adding hold.
DevaCurl Styling Cream ($34) “will leave your curls touchable, defined and reduce frizz,” says Sullivan. “A great product to follow this up with is DevaCurl Light Defining Gel ($32) for just a bit of hold. This will create a nice curl cast, and once dry, you’ll have enhanced shape and shine to your curls without flake or crunch.”
Type 3C
Type 3C curls are the tightest and most dense of the type 3 category and require extra moisture and care to maintain their natural shape. Enhance your wash day routine with the well-loved Don’t Despair, Repair! Deep Conditioning Hair Mask ($39) to nourish your strands with rich hydration. Next, apply a moisturizing curl cream to damp hair for added definition and hydration. Pattern Beauty Leave-In Conditioner ($28) by 3C queen Tracee Ellis Ross will deliver intense moisture and reduce frizz, resulting in defined, luscious curls that are full of bounce. “The lightweight texture delivers all of the moisture without the weight, so it can be used as a primer before styling on wash days,” explains Wilson. “Between wash days, it can add a boost of moisture while preventing breakage.”
Type 4 Hair (Coily/Kinky)
Type 4 hair is characterized by kinky S-shaped coils, zigzags or a combination of both. The naturally dry texture can vary from fine to coarse and is prone to shrinkage when dry, often causing it to appear much shorter than its actual length. Coily hair, also known as Afro-textured hair, is marked by an inherently spongy texture, with strands forming tight curls or zigzags right from the scalp. Keeping Type 4 hair healthy and strong while embracing its natural versatility requires specialized care and products made to hydrate, define and nourish. For “type 3C and type 4 hair, maintaining curl definition for extended durations necessitates a stronger hold,” says Monroe.
Type 4A
Type 4A hair types boast a visible curl pattern with springy S-shaped coils densely packed together. Given its compact nature, frequent maintenance is essential to keep coils manageable and vibrant. To ensure healthy hydration and easier styling, incorporate a nourishing curl cream into your wash day routine. Opt for the Mielle Organics Curl Smoothie ($13) for soft definition that will maintain your pliability, then use a diffuser to play up your natural volume. For added longevity, apply a conservative amount of Melanin Haircare Multi-Use Pure Oil Blend ($22) to seal in long-lasting moisture.
Type 4B
Type 4B hair has tightly coiled, zigzag-shaped curls that tend to shrink significantly when dry. You’ll want to keep a nutrient-rich mask on hand to strengthen your strands and prevent breakage. Apply the Sienna Naturals Plant Power Repair Mask ($34) through wet strands, then wrap your hair in a plastic cap and use a blow dryer for extra impact. Post-shower, the Camille Rose Naturals Curl Love Moisture Milk ($14) is an excellent choice for enhancing softness and shine.
Wilson says PATTERN Curl Mousse ($23) “can work across all hair types, and it’s especially helpful for those who want more defined curls and coils,” says Wilson. “The foam mousse also adds volume and shine that really pop with wash & go’s and can be used to seal braids, including this season’s popular knotless boho braids.”
Type 4C
Type 4C hair, with its compact zigzag pattern, is the most delicate and tightly coiled texture of all. Opt for sulfate-free cleansers enriched with argan oil, shea butter or coconut oil to maintain moisture and fortify strands. We love the Bread Hair Wash Gentle Milky Hair Cleanser ($20) and its Fruit Loop–like fragrance. Treat your coils weekly to deep conditioning masks such as Amika Soulfood Nourishing Hair Mask ($34), followed by lightweight oils like Mielle Organic Mint Almond Oil ($13) to combat breakage and lock in hydration. Consider using a silk pillowcase or hair bonnet at night for added protection.
Be My Curl Let’s Get Kinky Hydrating Gel ($30) offers “a medium hold tailored to the fragility of type 4 hair,” says Monroe. “Enriched with ingredients like panthenol for repair and reinforcement, this gel promotes strength, growth and moisture retention, catering to the unique needs of highly curly hair types prone to dryness.”
