Sitting down with celebrity makeup artist Scott Barnes for a chat is like taking a masterclass from the Michelangelo of makeup, and the description is not too far off. Barnes, who began his career as a fine art painter in New York City, stumbled into makeup artistry when a photographer noticed his innate understanding of lighting and balance. Despite initial reluctance due to the stigma attached to makeup artistry at the time, Barnes soon found his niche, eventually becoming the go-to artist for celebrities like Jennifer Lopez, Gwyneth Paltrow and Julianne Moore.
Recently, Barnes’s under-eye hack using Aquaphor went viral, a genius trick that he’s been using for years to keep makeup looking fresh and skin hydrated, which we love for dry or mature skin. “I used to work with Raquel Welch. I have clients that range from like 20- to 80-year-olds,” he says when asked about working with older clients. Fresh off the buzz, we sat down to uncover his top makeup tips for mature skin.
Hydration is Key to Prevent Creasing
“I’ve been using this Aquaphor trick for years,” Barnes says. “It’s great for hydrating the skin, especially under the eyes. Just a dab can keep the area fresh and prevent makeup from creasing.” Barnes discovered this hack during long hours working with Lopez on a recent film. “I applied it under her eyes daily due to our breakneck schedule. Her makeup stayed intact. I also combined it with Maybelline Colorstay powder, which is incredible—it doesn’t budge. It’s camera-friendly, perfect for the period piece I was doing with Cody Airspun. Opting for Aquaphor turned out to be the perfect choice—it laid beautifully on camera, especially in close-up scenes and emotional moments.”
Extend Your Makeup for Seamless Blending
“Don’t neglect your neck and chest,” Barnes urges. “You can use the Aquaphor trick here, too. It really softens lines, especially if you have lines around your neck, and ensures your face and neck blend seamlessly.”
“Apply Aquaphor or a similar healing balm to your neck before foundation to soften lines and blend skin textures, addressing signs of aging like crepiness. Many women will have skin resurfacing done and they just do the face and stop there, but you have to think about the neck, too. With makeup, you want to extend your foundation down to your chest for a uniform look. This simple step, mixed with foundation, sets perfectly with a light powder and can last up to 14 hours without budging.”
Choose Longer-Lasting Foundations
“When selecting foundations, opt for ones that offer a flawless finish without settling into fine lines,” advises Barnes. “To lighten the texture for mature skin, I often blend it with a bit of moisturizer. When I created my Multimedia Foundation, I created it based on a formulation from the 1930s and ’40s used by Marlene Dietrich’s makeup artists, who crafted it to withstand heat and provide a flawless, velvety finish under hot lights.”
Enhance Your Contours with Underpainting
“Create structure where needed,” Barnes explains. “This technique involves strategically applying contour and highlight to sculpt and define features. It’s about enhancing natural bone structure without looking overly made up.”
“Defining lines can significantly enhance your appearance, particularly jawlines which can square off with age or exercise. Softening or shortening these edges creates an optical illusion that enhances facial contours. This underpinning method places contour underneath to create definition where natural bone structure may be lacking. It’s a way to ‘create bones where there are none,’ which is especially useful for round faces without prominent cheekbones.”
Opt for Warmer Shades for a Youthful Glow
“Opt for warmer shades to enhance your glow,” he advises. “Cool tones can sometimes appear harsh on mature skin. A touch of warmth in blush and bronzer can give you a youthful radiance. It just blends better. For cool blondes, consider using gray-browns to complement hair tones without overpowering. Be mindful of achieving a balanced look—you don’t want to resemble an ‘oompa loompa’ with blonde hair, reminiscent of the ’90s orange face trend.”
Use a Color Correcting Concealer
“For women over 40, I recommend pink-toned concealers,” Barnes says. “They effectively neutralize blue and purple tones, such as melasma or discoloration from hormonal changes like pregnancy or birth control. Look for shades with peachy, pink, orange, or red undertones if you have darker skin. They really help cancel out those unwanted tones.”
Whether using his innovative under-eye trick or perfecting foundation blends that withstand the spotlight, Barnes’s techniques empower his stars to embrace their unique glow inside and out. His gorgeous, glowing approach proves that age is just a number in the world of beauty.
