Though they sound like the same thing, there’s a significant difference between hydrating and moisturizing your skin. Both share the goal of quenching parched areas, but how they achieve that goal varies. Depending on your skin type, you may prefer something more hydrating than moisturizing, or vice versa. However, all of the dermatologists I interviewed agreed that the best overall moisturizers offer both benefits.
“Moisturizer is one of the most important products you can use in your skin-care regimen,” says New York dermatologist Marina Peredo, MD. “It not only helps keeps skin healthy, but also youthful. When skin is dry, it exacerbates signs of aging.” Here, we take a closer look at the unique ingredients that fall in the hydrating category (humectants) and the moisturizing category (emollients and occlusives). We also share which skin types can benefit most from each category, and expert product picks. Armed with this knowledge, you’ll be equipped to navigate the beauty aisle like a pro and snag products that cater to your skin’s specific cravings.
What are the key differences between moisturizing and hydrating the skin?
“Hydration refers to water content in the skin, whilst moisture refers to oil content which protects the skin and prevents transepidermal water loss (water escaping the skin causing dehydration),” says aesthetician and founder of Madalaina Conti Synergistic Skincare, Madalaina Conti. “All skin types need both hydration and moisture. A healthy skin barrier is the result of a good balance of both.”
How do moisturizers and hydrating products differ in their formulations and ingredients?
Hydrators are formulated to attract and add water content to the skin with ingredients like peptides, hyaluronic acid, glycerin and even lactic acid. “True hydrating products will most likely be water based serums that will absorb easily into the skin,” says Conti. “Moisturizing products are usually moisturizers and oils that you’d typically use on top of your serums to lock in the hydration and protect. Many moisturizers have hydrating ingredients already incorporated as well.”
First, Is Your Skin Dry or Dehydrated?
“It’s important to first understand the difference between ‘dry’ skin and ‘dehydrated’ skin, because there is a difference,” says board-certified Omaha, NE dermatologist Joel Schlessinger, MD. “Dehydrated skin is a temporary state, where skin simply lacks water content. Dry skin is a condition, wherein skin makes an insufficient amount of lipids and oils to stay properly moisturized. Interestingly, skin can be dry and experience dehydration simultaneously.”
“If your skin is dehydrated, it is lacking water. If your skin is dry, it is lacking oil,” explains Dr. Peredo. “Hydration is the process of water absorption. Hydration equals water, and moisture equals oil.” To this point, Dr. Schlessinger adds that “dehydrated skin benefits from hydrating ingredients. These help boost the water content in the skin’s surface cells by pulling in moisture from either the air or deeper layers of skin. Dry skin, however, benefits from moisturizing ingredients. These form an occlusive barrier on dry skin, helping it to hold onto more of its own natural oils and moisture.”
If You Need Hydration, Here’s What to Look For
The first and best way to keep the skin hydrated is to keep your body hydrated through drinking live, mineralized water and eating water rich foods. “Topically, serums are a great way to keep the skin hydrated since they are commonly water based and can absorb into superficial layers of the skin vs. sitting on top,” says Conti.
To hydrate your skin, Dr. Peredo suggests looking for products with ingredients known as humectants. These ingredients help collect moisture in the environment (air) and bind it to the skin. This allows the skin cells to absorb the water and stay hydrated. “Hyaluronic acid is a great hydrator,” she says, explaining that it holds 1,000 times its weight in water. “Other examples of humectants are aloe vera, glycerin, urea and propylene glycol.” Dr. Schlessinger notes that honey and some forms of marine extracts/algaes also have humectant properties. “It’s important to then seal the skin with emollients like shea butter, jojoba oil, squalane and occlusives, like petrolatum and lanolin, to prevent transepidermal water loss,” says aesthetician and founder of Raquel New York Raquel Medina-Cleghorn.
San Francisco board-certified dermatologist Amelia Hausauer, MD adds that not all humectants work the same way. “Some supply moisture, like glycerin, sorbitol, aloe vera, honey, and hyaluronic acid. Others, such as lactic acid and urea, help shed dead skin cells first and then help even out moisture levels.
Because humectants are typically lighter-weight, Davie, FL board-certified dermatologist Marianna Blyumin-Karasik, MD says they are usually found in gels, serums and lotions. “These hydrating products are great if you have dehydrated, oily or combination skin. In these cases, it’s ideal to use hydrators with lighter, water-replenishing ingredients. If you have dry skin, look for products that combine hydrating humectants with moisturizing emollients and occlusives.” More on this below.
Hydrating Products to Try
If You Need Moisturization, Here’s What to Look For
On the other hand, moisturizing skin-care ingredients come from two categories: emollients and occlusives. “These ingredients form a seal on the skin to keep water content inside your cells from escaping,” says Dr. Peredo. “Examples of these types of moisturizers include coconut oil, almond oil, shea butter, cocoa butter and jojoba oil. But if you have acne-prone skin, some of these plant-based oils, like coconut oil, are comedogenic and may clog pores.”
Dr. Schlessinger describes emollients as moisturizing agents that soften and smooth by filling in the cracks between dead skin cells. “These cracks are signs of a damaged skin barrier,” he explains. “For this reason, emollients are particularly good for irritated, sensitive, inflamed, or reactive skin. But, all skin types can use them.” Ceramides, squalane and dimethicone are also emollients, Dr. Karasik adds.
“Occlusive ingredients are great for those with dry skin because they create a physical barrier on the skin to keep water inside it,” says Dr. Karasik. “Common occlusives include mineral oil, lanolin, castor oil, beeswax, olive oil, and certain silicones.” Dr. Hausauer adds that these ingredients are much heavier than humectants, and are commonly found in balms and ointments. Because they form a seal on the skin, occlusives should always be the last step in a skin-care routine. They are also recommended after certain in-office treatments, or when the skin barrier is fragile.”
Moisturizing Products to Try
