Melasma, the dark, discolored patches that appear on the skin, is a chronic condition that often worsens during the summer months. And as the sun and heat intensify during this time, those of us with melasma or hyperpigmentation will notice the spots getting darker and darker. These super hot months are also when it’s hardest to hide it. However, if you stick to specific SPF and skin-care guidelines, you can manage and prevent the dark spot flare-ups. Here, our skin experts share their golden rules for keeping melasma in check as temperatures rise.
Featured Experts
- Elaine Kung, MD is a board-certified dermatologist based in New York
- Janine Hopkins, MD is a board-certified dermatologist based in Southlake, TX and Monroe, LA
- Veronica Barton Schwartz is a celebrity aesthetician based in Malibu, CA
- Nerida Joy is a celebrity aesthetician based in Los Angeles
Rule 1: Use SPF 50 or Higher
The first and most critical rule for managing melasma during the summer is to use a sunscreen with an SPF of 50 or higher. New York dermatologist Elaine Kung, MD emphasizes that, “broad-spectrum SPF 50 is crucial as both UVA and UVB rays contribute to hyperpigmentation.” She adds that mineral sunscreens containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide are often better tolerated for melasma-prone skin.
Southlake, TX dermatologist Jeanine Hopkins, MD agrees, recommending “a daily sunscreen with SPF 50 or higher” for her melasma patients. This high level of protection helps block the UVA and UVB rays that can worsen dark spots and patches.
Rule 2: Opt for Physical Sunscreens
When choosing between physical and chemical sunscreens, experts agree that physical sunscreens are more effective for those with melasma. Celebrity aesthetician Veronica Barton Schwartz notes that, “a broad-spectrum tinted sunscreen, especially ones that use physical blockers like zinc and iron oxide, can lower pigment production in the skin.” This is because physical sunscreens block both visible light and UVA/UVB rays, which are key in managing melasma.
Celebrity aesthetician Nerida Joy adds, “Physical sunscreens absolutely protect my skin better from the sun than chemical sunscreens. They keep the skin cooler with their zinc and titanium content, while chemical sunscreens can hold heat and cause irritation.”
Rule 3: Reapply, Reapply, Reapply
Proper application and reapplication of sunscreen are essential. Barton Schwartz advises, “A 50 SPF will last for approximately 3-4 hours. If you’re on the move, sweating, or in a place with a particularly strong UV index, it is recommended to apply SPF 50 sunscreen every 2 hours.”
Dr. Kung echoes this, suggesting reapplication every two hours and even more frequently during water sports or activities that cause sweating. Ensuring thorough and frequent application can significantly reduce the risk of melasma worsening.
Rule 4: Add More Protection
Beyond sunscreen, additional protective measures are necessary to prevent melasma flare-ups. Dr. Hopkins emphasizes the importance of sun-protective clothing, advising patients to wear “wide-brimmed hats, large sunglasses and clothing with UPF 50 protection.” Barton Schwartz also recommends avoiding direct sun exposure during peak hours (10 a.m. to 4 p.m.) and wearing protective clothing, including lightweight long-sleeved shirts and pants. These measures provide an added layer of defense against harmful UV rays.
Rule 5: Stay Cool and Don’t Get Overheated
Heat itself can trigger melasma, so it’s important to stay cool. Joy points out that “chemical sunscreens hold heat easily and the skin can get hot and irritated.” To prevent this, she suggests using physical sunscreens and seeking shade whenever possible. Cooling the skin with products containing soothing ingredients like aloe vera can also help manage heat-induced flare-ups.
Rule 6: Use Antioxidants and Skin Brighteners
Incorporating antioxidants and skin-brightening ingredients into your skin-care routine can aid in managing melasma. Dr. Hopkins recommends using “antioxidants such as vitamin C and polyphenol, as well as anti-inflammatory, skin-lightening ingredients like licorice, kojic acid, azelaic acid and arbutin.” These ingredients can help reduce pigmentation and protect the skin from further damage.
Rule 7: Avoid Products That Sensitize Skin
Certain skin-care products can make the skin more sensitive to the sun, exacerbating melasma. Barton Schwartz advises against “using toxic skin care like synthetic retinoids, hydroquinone, phytotoxic oils (like lemon) and other actives that cause a sensitivity to light and heat damage.” Instead, she recommends products that are gentle on the skin and less likely to cause irritation.
By following these expert-backed rules, melasma sufferers can go outside again without the risk of flare-ups. Proper protection and the right routine can make a significant difference in maintaining healthy, even-toned skin.
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