It seems the moment one trend comes into view, another eclipses it. Dermaplaning has become popular as popular brands launch products that support carrying out the technique at home. Now, we’re seeing people shift to oilplaning, which experts say is a better option for sensitive or mature skin.
Featured Experts
- Katey McTavish is a skin health expert aesthetician and global education manager at Kate Somerville
- Dara Levy is the founder of dermaplaning brand Dermaflash
- Ian Michael Crumm is a celebrity aesthetician based in New York City
- Kristin Gunn is an aesthetician based in Austin, TX
What is oilplaning?
Oilplaning is a take on the exfoliation and hair removal method of dermaplaning. It “involves using a facial oil or oil-based cleanser, like a balm on the skin, along with a facial razor to remove dead skin cells and peach fuzz,” explains Kate Somerville skin health expert aesthetician and global education manager Katey McTavish. Dermaflash founder Dara Levy notes, “We’ve been seeing more of it on TikTok and Instagram lately, as interest in all types of dermaplaning has been growing.”
The benefits of oilplaning
Oilplaning and dermaplaning are exfoliation techniques that remove “facial hair or peach fuzz while gently exfoliating the top layer of skin,” explains celebrity aesthetician Ian Michael Crumm. The exfoliation leaves the skin glowing and enhances makeup application, notes McTavish. Additionally, “past these initial benefits, the results can last around three weeks to keep skin glowing, whilst giving a brighter and smoother appearance.” Levy says serums and moisturizers sink in like a dream after dermaplaning or oilplaning, leaving dry skin dewy, hydrated and glowing. “By eliminating the barrier of dead skin cells and peach fuzz, skin-care products can penetrate more effectively, maximizing their benefits,” explains aesthetician Kristin Gunn.
What is the difference between oilplaning and dermaplaning?
The key difference between the two is that with oilplaning, you’re lubricating the skin first rather than exfoliating on dry skin, explains McTavish. Both techniques can acquire the same results, but the oil functions as a barrier for the skin, explains the team at Billie that recently launched a Dermaplane Starter Kit ($12).
“Oilplaning and dermaplaning are similar in that they both aim to remove the oldest layer of dead skin cells and peach fuzz from the skin’s surface. The difference is in how skin is prepared, as well as the results you’ll see,” says Levy. “Dermaplaning is done on skin that’s been cleansed and thoroughly de-fatted (in other words, the surface oil has been removed). The drier the canvas, the easier it is to remove debris from skin. This means that dermaplaning can deliver a deeper exfoliation compared to oilplaning.”
Should I dermaplane or oilplane?
It’s important to consider your skin type when weighing the pros and cons of dermaplaning and oilplaning. McTavish says she wouldn’t “recommend [oilplaning] for someone with active or cystic acne, eczema, psoriasis, rosacea or coarse and dark facial hair.” If you’re unsure whether you’re a candidate for this exfoliation technique, talk to your dermatologist or aesthetician.
Prepping skin with oil allows for more gentle exfoliation, says Crumm. Oilplaning is ideal for skin that would benefit from a little extra TLC, says Gunn. “While dermaplaning can be a bit harsh on mature or sensitive skin, oilplaning swoops in to save the day. You’re still getting that glorious exfoliation and vellus hair removal, but before diving in, a little facial oil glides over your skin, ensuring a smooth ride without any irritation or overdrying.”
When deciding whether to incorporate oil or not, Gunn evaluates the client’s skin conditions, hydration level and sensitivity. “For instance, if you are prone to breakouts after dermaplaning, we would try it with the oil,” says Gunn. “Or if your hair is very coarse, dermaplaning may be a better option. There is no one-size-fits-all approach.”
Gunn prefers to oilplane herself since her skin is sensitive, using a soothing face oil to reduce any redness. However, there’s no right or wrong answer; it’s totally up to personal preference, she notes. “I would say if you have sensitive skin, though, oilplaning will be your best option to minimize any redness and irritation.”
What is sonic dermaplaning?
There’s dermaplaning and oilplaning then there’s a sonic option. Levy prefers “sonic dermaplaning over old-fashioned scalpel dermaplaning and oilplaning” achieved with a product like DERMAFLASH LUXE+ ($199) preceded by PREFLASH. She feels it keeps skin safer while offering the additional benefits of the sonic technology. “The sonic vibration boosts microcirculation and supports cellular turnover.”
How to oilplane
“Begin by cleansing the skin, and then apply a generous layer of your facial oil or cleansing balm onto dry skin. Make sure you pull the skin taut by stretching from the hairline or other areas on the face with one hand, and then with the other hand make short, gentle downward strokes with the tool,” instructs McTavish. “Be sure to move the blade in the direction of the natural hair growth to remove the vellus hair whilst holding the tool at a 45-degree angle for best results.”
