I’m very grateful to be aging because every day in this crazy world is a blessing. But that doesn’t mean I have to like the lines and wrinkles staring back at me in the mirror. That’s where peptides come in. Think of them as the cheerleaders in your skin-care routine, putting the pep back into your skin to keep it firm and taut. Here, dermatologists and skin-care experts help us decode peptides so you know how they work and which products to use.
What Are Peptides?
Peptides are very small pieces of protein made up of somewhere between two and 50 amino acids. They typically come from plants or are manufactured using biotechnology. They are biomimetic and serve as the building blocks of collagen and elastin in the skin. As we get older, the quality of our collagen and elastin—also types of protein—begin to depreciate. This is due to intrinsic factors like the natural aging process and extrinsic factors like exposure to the sun and pollution. “Peptides are good for all skin types and can help remove damaged collagen and elastin and then rebuild healthy collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid,” says Fresno, CA dermatologist Kathleen L. Behr, MD. “This improves skin texture, elasticity and hydration. This leads to healthier, more youthful-appearing skin.”
Peptides are such a broad type of ingredient that many brands tend to market their own trade names. “Using the term peptide to describe every peptide in skin-care products would be like labeling all the toys in a toy store as just ‘toys,’” says cosmetic formulator Stephen Alain Ko. “Developing trademarks can be an easier way for people to understand the specific benefits that a particular peptide in a formula might offer.” One example is Matrixyl 3000, a combination of palmitoyl tripeptide-1 and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7. This ingredient was made by the company Sederma and is currently the most widely used peptide by skin-care brands globally.
The Benefits of Peptides in Skin Care
According to Jan Marini, president of Jan Marini Skin Research, peptides react to specific receptor sites in the skin. They trigger and signal more effective skin functioning, helping skin to act in a younger way. “They’re able to ‘speak’ to cells, so they assist in correcting some of the cellular behavior that has occurred as a result of aging,” she explains.
One can only wonder, though: Do peptides work more effectively on younger skin with healthier collagen? “Many of the peptides that have a role in helping with collagen do it by fooling the skin into thinking it’s wounded,” says Marini. “So, think about how your skin repairs itself when you’re 70 versus 20. It takes longer to heal, and the condition of your collagen probably isn’t as good. Theoretically, this means you might not have the same response to peptides at an older age, but they are helpful in skin care regardless.”
The Five Main Types of Peptides
Not all peptides are created equal. In skin-care products, different peptides operate in different ways. These are the four main types, and their primary functions.
Carrier Peptides: These peptides deliver or “carry” beneficial minerals to the skin to help with collagen production. “They are critical to skin health,” says Kate Riley, director of education for NEOVA. “GHK-copper, in particular, supports both collagen regeneration and the growth of new blood vessels in wound healing.” Copper peptides are a type of carrier peptide. “These form a complex with antioxidant-rich copper, which not all peptides can do,” says Ko. They boost collagen and elastin like other types, but Dr. Schlessinger says they are also thought to promote the production of natural hyaluronic acid and perhaps even help the body with wound healing.
Signal Peptides: These peptides “signal” parts of the body to produce more collagen and elastin in the skin. “This helps smooth fine lines and wrinkles,” says skin-care scientist Rocio Rivera, PhD. “Carnosine is a good example of a signal peptide.”
Enzyme Inhibitor Peptides: These help slow down the breakdown of collagen and elastin in the skin. “In skin care, we look to these peptides to inhibit matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), a group of enzymes that degrade collagen and other skin proteins,” Riley says.
Neurotransmitter Peptides: “Often labeled on ingredient lists as argireline or acetyl hexapeptide-3, these peptides are more unique,” says Omaha, NE dermatologist Joel Schlessinger, MD. “They block the release of a neurotransmitter called acetylcholine, which inhibits muscle contraction in a similar way that Botox does. But don’t expect to get the same results as traditional Botox injections, which are much more effective.”
Are Bigger Peptides Better?
When you see ingredients like acetyl octapeptide-3 and palmitoyl tripeptide-38, the prefixes tell you how many amino acids make up the peptide. For example, ‘tripeptide’ means there are three amino acids. However, Ko says more amino acids don’t necessarily make a peptide better or stronger. “The important thing is how it interacts with the skin. This is based on the research of its effects, not its size.” Polypeptides have become increasingly popular in skin-care products as well. Dr. Rivera explains that these particular peptides contain at least 50 amino acids or more, forming a longer chain. But again, the longer chain isn’t synonymous with increased efficacy.
Additionally, in many formulas, peptide molecules are too big to penetrate the skin. “But most often, they don’t need to penetrate to do their work,” says Dr. Schlessinger. “Instead, they serve as messengers of sorts, telling the body to naturally produce more collagen and elastin and repair itself.” However, according to Marisa Dufort, director of research and development for Exuviance, smaller peptides with a molecular weight of less than 500 daltons, such as dipeptides, can effectively absorb into surface layers of the skin.
Which Ingredients Do Peptides Work Best With?
In general, peptides play well with a multitude of ingredients. However, Ko says most skin-care research tends to look at peptides on their own. Dr. Schlessinger’s perfect pairing for the amino acid chains is retinol, as he believes the two together can deliver complete anti-aging benefits. Hyaluronic acid and vitamin C are other favorable peptide partners, and one of Marini’s top picks is growth factors. “I like this combination because peptides and growth factors do complementary things,” she says. “Research indicates that peptides can actually help growth factors be more effective.” Dufort notes that antioxidants are a great match, too, because “they bring additional benefits against external aggressors.”
According to Dr. Behr, peptide products are also ideal to apply after in-office treatments like lasers. This is because the skin barrier has been “wounded,” and peptides are gentle and react well to wound healing.
Top Products to Try
These are the peptide-packed products to reach for when firmer skin is the goal.
