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The Expert Cheat Sheet for Choosing the Right Foundation Formula

The Expert Cheat Sheet for Choosing the Right Foundation Formula featured image
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This article first appeared in the Winter 2021 issue of New Beauty. Click here to subscribe
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Liquid or powder? Luminous or matte? BB or CC? When it comes to complexion products, there are several types of foundation, and it can be tough to decide which one is best for your skin. Not only do you need to take your skin type into consideration, but also the climate you live in, and the season. As the seasons change, you may find your skin wanting more or less moisture, which impacts the foundation you wear on a daily basis. Plus, you want to love how your skin looks and feels. It can take a lot of trial and error to get there, but finding that perfect match (or matches) is worth it in the long run.

Personally, I like to keep a few different foundation formulas on my vanity for different occasions. For example, if I have a big event or I’m filming a video for work, I opt for a liquid formula with more coverage and long-wear. If I’m hanging out with friends in a more casual setting, I’ll reach for a BB cream or tinted moisturizer with SPF. And, if I’m just working from home and hopping on a couple Zoom calls, I can often get by with a quick swipe of a foundation stick in a couple targeted areas. (Thank you to the creators of Zoom for your glorious touch-up feature.) Here, top makeup artists break down each main type of foundation and who it’s best for, as well as product recommendations to try.

Featured Experts

The 7 Main Types of Foundation

Formula: Liquid Foundation

Sephora beauty director David Razzano says the general rule for choosing the right liquid finish is based on skin type. “Those with drier and/or mature skin are better off with luminous formulas; oily and combination skin types typically benefit from a matte finish to minimize shine.” Celebrity makeup artist Lisa Eldridge suggests applying a little at a time, even if you want full coverage. “It’s amazing how much longer thin layers last, and how much better they look. Apply from the center of the face toward the hairline to make the edges imperceivable.”

Great For: Medium-full and buildable coverage; all skin types, depending on the formula

patrick ta luminous foundation
Patrick Ta Major Skin Hydra-Luxe Luminous Skin Perfecting Foundation

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ONE/SIZE Turn Up the Base Full Beat Liquid Foundation

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Formula: Powder Foundation

“Many powder formulas contain light-reflecting particles that give the illusion of smoother skin without the weight of liquid foundation,” explains celebrity makeup artist Tim Quinn. Razzano says those with “extremely oily skin would be doing themselves a huge favor to try powder.” Some formulas are designed to be applied with a wet brush or sponge so it goes on like a liquid but dries into a powder.

Great For: Oily skin

loreal paris infallible foundation in powder
L’Oréal Paris Infallible 24H Fresh Wear Foundation in a Powder

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Relevant Rele-Blur Soft Focus Powder Foundation

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Formula: Stick Foundation

Cream-based sticks may be one of the oldest forms of foundation, but they’re still the preferred choice for many makeup artists. “Creams are the most buildable, so you can go all the way up from sheer coverage to concealer-strength,” says Quinn. With a more precise applicator tip, like MERIT’s Foundation Stick below, it’s very easy to apply it as concealer under the eyes and around the nose, too.

Foundation sticks are also great for dry skin: “When skin is really dry, it can absorb a lot of the hydration from liquid formulas, leaving only the pigment behind, which can then begin to flake and create patches in the foundation,” says Razzano. “Sticks will stay creamy longer on dry skin.” However, you always want to prep dry skin with skin care (serum and/or moisturizer plus sunscreen) before using a foundation stick.

Great For: Dry skin and those who like multitasking products (they can also double as concealer)

merit foundation stick
MERIT The Minimalist Complexion Perfecting Stick

BUY ON MERIT – $38

charlotte-tilbury-foundation-stick
Charlotte Tilbury Unreal Skin Sheet Glow Tint Foundation Stick

BUY ON SEPHORA – $46


Formula: Foundation Balm

Infused with skin-care ingredients, think of these formulas as the best mix of a nourishing face balm and a powder foundation. “Kevyn Aucoin was the original foundation balm and there have since been many other versions from various brands,” says Quinn. “These are nice for anyone with dry or mature skin who want a blurring effect and a product that won’t accentuate fine lines.” Foundation balms are typically matte formulas, though you can add a glowy primer or moisturizer underneath to change the finish.

Great For: Dry and/or mature skin

kevyn-aucoin-foundation-balm
Kevyn Aucoin Foundation Balm

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KVD Beauty Good Apple Skin-Perfecting Foundation Balm

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Formula: BB Cream

Hailing from K-beauty as a lightweight alternative to foundation, “Beauty Balms” offer more coverage than a tinted moisturizer. “They’re typically sheer-to-medium and contain light-reflective particles to give skin a radiant glow,” Eldridge explains. They’re also infused with skin-care benefits, such as SPF, antioxidant protection and acne-fighting properties. Quinn says many BB creams can also function as daytime moisturizers, which combines two steps into one for those looking to save time in their routines.

Great For: Light coverage and SPF protection

Award Photo: Perfect Glow BB Cream SPF 30
Pūrlisse Perfect Glow BB Cream SPF 30

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Jane Iredale Glow Time Pro BB Cream SPF 25

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Formula: CC Cream

“Color-Correcting” creams use pigments to even skin tone and alleviate concerns like redness or sallowness. They also tend to feature more coverage than BB creams, and “are ideal for someone who wants more coverage, but doesn’t want to feel or see heavier foundations on their skin,” says Razzano. Quinn finds that many of his clients who would normally wear a color-correcting primer to neutralize redness or rosacea enjoy the perks of a CC cream. “CC creams tend to come in a smaller range of shades than foundation, so for those having trouble finding a shade, you can create a similar effect by using a color-correcting primer under your regular foundation,” says Eldridge.

Great For: Redness/rosacea and SPF protection

itcosmeticscccream
IT Cosmetics CC+ Cream SPF 50+

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elf cc cream
e.l.f. CAMO Hydrating CC ream SPF 30

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Formula: Tinted Moisturizer

Straddling the line between makeup and skin care, tinted moisturizers hydrate skin while masking minor imperfections with a subtle hint of color. Most formulas have a comfortable, second-skin feel—many come infused with SPF, too. “They’re great if you want something really lightweight and gently perfecting for wearing around the house,” suggests Eldridge. Razzano adds, “Tinted moisturizers are the ultimate go-to for the person who wants the ‘no makeup makeup’ look. They won’t cover acne or hyperpigmentation.”

Great For: Dry skin and the “no-makeup makeup” look

bareminerals tinted moisturizer matte
bareMinerals Complexion Rescue Natural Matte Tinted Moisturizer SPF 30

BUY NOW – $39

colour pop pretty fresh tinted moisturizer
ColourPop Pretty Fresh Hyaluronic Acid Tinted Moisturizer

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